InStyle March 2012 Beauty Must Haves

I'm so inspired by this gorgeous beauty editorial in the March 2012 issue of InStyle!  The latest trends of spring and summer are pictured amid piles of indulgent sweets.  Don't the fuchsia nail polishes, violet eyeshadows, and coral lipsticks look even more fun and decadent? 

 

 
Which trend do you like best?  I've got fuchsia nail polish and purple eyeshadow in spades, now I want to find a great coral lipstick!  Got any other recs for me?

P.S. Happy Easter to those who are celebrating!  Another reason I love this candy coated makeup spread so much? I haven't eaten sweets since February!  It's Easter candy time you guys X-D

Inspiration: Vampira

I first discovered the glamorously ghoulish beauty that is Vampira through Tim Burton's incredible biopic Ed Wood, an inspiring tribute to the Worst Director of All Time.  Vampira stole every scene the way only a vampy vixen can and I had to know more about the character.

This siren made a name for herself by slinking across television screens as a late night horror movie hostess on The Vampira Show.  Her waspy waist, eyebrows that exist nowhere in nature, and fingernails more resembling claws were just three of her trademarks.  At the beginning of every show Vampira would sulk toward the camera, let out a bloodcurdling scream, then seductively purr "Screaming relaxes me so!"

She provided sarcastic and double entendre commentary on the films, talked to her pet spider, sipped cocktails from her Poison bar, and encouraged viewers to write her for "epitaphs instead of autographs."  Vampira was all at once witty, spooky, and glamorous, and the audience loved her for it!  In the middle of America's conservative and uptight 1950s, the vamp was a hit.  

Feeling a little glamour ghoulish yourself?  Here are a few modern day beauty essentials to vamp up your vanity.

NARS Trio Eye Shadow, $45
For smoky, beguiling, glittering eyes in vampy colors
Too Faced Close-Up Coverage Foundation, $36: 
Flawless smooth skin in a gorgeous bottle
Hourglass Onyx Film Noir Lash Lacquer, $24: 
To emphasize your long, spidery lashes and accentuate and define your dark eyebrows
NARS Cruella Velvet Matte Lip Pencil, $24: 
Blood red lip crayon inspired by another iconic villainess
Bvlgari Jasmin Noir Eau De Parfum, $98: 
What's a vamp vixen without a seductive scent?
Boscia Detoxifying Black Cleanser, $28
Requisite black and strong enough to dissolve your stage makeup
Chinoise Nail Polish by Rescue Beauty, $18
For glorious blood red talons
Shahnaz Husain Shaeyes Herbal Kohl, $5.98
Line your eyes with cosmetics the ancient Egyptians used...spooky

Maila Nurmi, the woman who created and acted as Vampira herself, explains her inspirations in molding this iconic femme fatale.  Theda Bara, Snow White's Evil Queen, and Norma Desmond in Sunset Boulevard were all influences.  Maila also explains her theory on Vampira's appeal and how such a scandalous character thrived in the conservative climate of 1950s America.  This interview is a treasure!

Easy Edie Sedgwick Halloween Costume

It's probably no surprise that my Halloween costumes always involve dramatic makeup; my pick this year is no exception.  I'm dressing up as Edie Sedgwick, she of 1965 Warhol Superstar fame.  The best part is that I've already got everything I'll need in my closet; chances are, so do you!  Check out these essentials for insta-Edie.

1) Leopard print coat: Faux, naturally. Although Edie's was probably real.
2) Black tights: As a dancer, Edie never bothered to change out of her leotards and tights and they became part of her trademark look.
3) The longest, most dangly earrings you can find: Another Edie signature; if they don't at least touch your shoulders, you're doing it wrong
4) Bob Dylan's Blonde on Blonde: To listen while you get ready.  Some of the songs ("Leopard Skin Pillbox Hat", "Just Like a Woman") are rumored to be inspired by her
5) Multiple pairs of false eyelashes: Edie was also famous for her bold makeup and often wore several pairs of eyelashes at once
6) Nude(ish) lipstick: She wouldn't have been caught dead in bold lipstick; eyes were the focus of Edie's makeup and bright lipstick was out of vogue by the mid sixties
7) Eyeshadow palette: Light and dark browns, even black, are a must for completing Edie's famous look

Pretty simple, right?  All I've got to buy is a short blonde wig!  For true authenticity, though, you've got to perfect her unique eye makeup. 

 

Start with an eyeshadow primer and a matte vanilla or cream colored eyeshadow applied from your lashline to your browbone.  Use a wet eyeliner brush to create a defined black or dark brown line over your natural crease.  Extend it from your inner corner and make it as dramatic and defined as possible.  Line your upper lashline with black liquid liner, then apply the biggest, most dramatic pair of false eyelashes you can find.  

It's okay if the eye makeup isn't totally perfect.  Edie herself had way better things to do than drawing and re-drawing eyeliner all day.  In later years when she'd spent through her inheritance, Edie even used watercolor paints to apply her eye makeup.  You really can't mess this up!  Have fun getting ready and have an even better time at all those fabulous Halloween parties and haunted houses you'll be attending!

Are you dressing up for Halloween this year?  What was your favorite costume as a kid?  

Fall Inspiration: Smashing Pumpkins "Tonight, Tonight" / '90s Red Lipstick

This video for "Tonight, Tonight" by The Smashing Pumpkins is definitely one of my all time favorites.  It's epic and magical with sweeping orchestrals and Edwardian era sci-fi themes.  The video concept is lifted almost entirely from Georges Méliès's 1902 silent film A Trip to the Moon, the first ever sci-fi movie (you can also find it on YouTube, it was pretty incredible for its time).  While the music and visuals in "Tonight, Tonight" are amazing, what I really love are the details.  And I've been patiently waiting all summer to finally rock some ethereal '90s makeup like bassist D'arcy Wretzky.

Okay, so up close her makeup is a little more Goth and ghostly than I realized. What I initially interpreted as brick red lipstick appears black in this screenshot I took, but no matter.  Here are some gorgeous products to get her look of luminous, otherworldly glamour, absolutely perfect for fall! 

The brick red lipstick that was so trendy during the '90s always seems to make a comeback, and fall is the best time to wear it!  MAC launched their first Viva Glam lipstick in 1994, and the brick red matte shade is still available today as Viva Glam I.  With every Viva Glam lipstick sold, MAC donates 100% of the price to their AIDS Fund, which supports men, women, and children living with HIV/AIDS.  It goes without saying that this is a wonderful cause to support, right?

In keeping with the celestial themes in "Tonight, Tonight", Benefit's Moonbeam shimmer liquid highlighter that adds a romantic golden sheen to your skin.  It looks especially gorgeous on your cheekbones, browbones, right above your upper lip in the cupid's bow, or all over your eyelids.  This will make your skin look glowing and lit from within!

This Summer Time cream eyeshadow duo from NARS has two beautiful shades in champagne and sunset gold to create a subtle, light reflecting look.  The darker shade would be lovely as an understated liner to slightly define eyes, and the lighter shade would be beautiful layered with Moonbeam all over eyelids.

What are your favorite '90s looks and inspirations?  Another of mine will always be Clueless, which really deserves its own inspiration post! 

Inspiration: Diana Vreeland

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Diana Vreeland never considered herself a beauty, and yet is one of the most remembered and influential women in fashion and publishing.   Her signature "Why Don't You..." column in Harper's Bazaar provided dreamy, outlandish, and entertaining suggestions to make readers' lives anything but ordinary.  This column eventually catapulted her to the position of editor-in-chief for Vogue.  In 1984 she wrote her biography, D.V., which highlights her incredibly entertaining experiences and opinions.  For this very special Inspiration post containing excerpts from D.V., Mrs. Vreeland's own words regarding makeup and perfume speak for themselves.  


"I adore dressing and I adore making up. I adore the procedure- it's terribly invigorating, both during my getting up in the morning and during my getting ready to go out in the evening.  It gives me such pleasure."

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"I adore artifice.  I always have.  I remember when I was thirteen or fourteen buying red lacquer in Chinatown for my fingernails.
'What is that?' my mother said.  'Where did you get it?  Why did you get it?'
'Because,' I said, 'I want to be a Chinese princess.'"


"Then...when I started going out a few years later, I discovered calcimine.  If I was going out -and I went out almost every night- two and a half hours before my escort arrived I'd start with this huge bottle of calcimine (I forget the brand, but it was theatrical stuff)--a sponge...I'd be totally calcimined from the waist up, out along the arms, the back, the neck, the throat, et cetera, et cetera...Then, when my escort and I would get up to dance, he, in his black dinner jacket, would be totally white.  I would come off on him.  But he'd have to put up with it.  It meant nothing to me--I looked like a lily!"

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"Scent, although you can't see it, is as important to a well-turned-out woman as her makeup, her nail varnish, her pearls."

"Chanel No. 5, to me, is still the ideal scent for a woman.  She can wear it anywhere, anytime, and everybody--husbands, beaus, taxi drivers--everybody loves it.  No one has gone beyond Chanel No. 5."

Why don't you... channel Mrs. Vreeland?  Deep red nail polish and red lipstick are absolutely essential.  If yours is YSL, Dior, or Tom Ford, so much the better!  Add a splash of Chanel No. 5 and make sure you are elegantly powdered.  Store all your treasures in a set of bright red lacquer boxes, perfect for stashing your bottle of scotch and cigarettes with your personal insignia.

“I’m a great believer in vulgarity- if it’s got vitality. A little bad taste is like a nice splash of paprika. We all need a splash of bad taste- it’s hearty, it’s healthy, it’s physical. I think we could use more of it. No taste is what I’m against.”

Holiday Inspiration: Pin-Up Girls!

In celebration of America's Independence Day, Applied Glamour brings you a very special inspiration post in honor of everything Americans hold dear: patriotism, freedom, and girls!  What could be more all-American than a wholesome and slightly risque pinup girl-next-door?  She's been all over the world decorating the walls and lockers of servicemen overseas.  Her picture has been painted on airplanes and carried around in pockets.  She's the very epitome of classic glamour!  She'll outshine any firework and with a few clever makeup secrets, so will you!  Here's what you'll need...

Luminous skin:
Smooth glowing skin is as essential to a pinup as red lipstick!  Start with a glamorous light diffusing primer from Guerlain to make your skin appear lit from within.  Keep your foundation in place and shine under control with this beautiful Sexy Mama translucent powder from The Balm.  The packaging is irresistible!  Of course, luminous skin shouldn't be limited to just your face!  For extra glamour you need a powder puff and scented powder with a little shimmer like this one from Juicy Couture that contains crushed pearls and diamonds!  You'll have flawless skin from your ankles to your shoulders.  Apply a little bit of fragranced lotion first to give the powder extra staying power.

Knockout nails:
It's important that your fingernails are manicured as well.  Try to match your nail polish to your lipstick!  My favorite is Orly's Monroe's Red, but Essie also has a great many reds to choose from.  If you want to be extra authentic, try a half moon manicure and leave the bottom oval of your nails bare, seen above.  Modern day pinup incarnation Dita Von Teese suggests placing those little curved stickers used for traditional French manicures just over your natural "moons" instead, and painting the length of your nails.  It's an such a wonderful extra touch!

Rosy cheeks and alluring eyes:
To really play up the "I'm a nice girl, I don't mean to be showing off my stockings!" pinup image, you need some blushing innocent cheeks!  Anything with a pink or tawny shimmer will do, but Bobbi Brown's Shimmer Brick is a modern classic and perfect for any aspiring pinup ingenue-turned-femme-fatale.  Your eye makeup should accentuate your wide-eyed innocence; red lipstick is what makes a pinup really smolder!  Keep eye makeup relatively simple with neutral shades to enhance, not detract.  Too Faced's Natural Eye Kit is literally foolproof!  You can't go wrong with it.  False eyelashes are also a must!  They can be tricky to apply but are oh so worth it!  One brand, Eylure, comes with the adhesive already attached to make application much easier. 

Luscious lips:
Red lipstick is what completes the entire pinup look, of course!  Make sure you choose a lipstick with gorgeous packaging for an extra glamour.  If you really want to go authentic, transfer your brand new lipstick into a vintage lipstick tube!  You can find one at just about any antique store and on eBay.  For a super easy transfer, check out this amazing tutorial!  Hint: make sure you freeze the new lipstick first.  Voila!

Enjoy your holiday, however you choose to celebrate!

Inspiration: Carmen Miranda

I'm currently obsessed with all things fruity and tropical.  Carmen Miranda, with her swishy skirts and elaborate fruit headdress, is my perfect muse!  I want to eat watermelon, listen to Harry Belafonte, and drink delicious fruity cocktails all day.  I'll take an occasional break for Mexican food and dancing!  Luckily this obsession coincides with a mini-vacation to my best friend Jessica's house, and we've already been plotting some fantastical adventures!  Isn't it lovely to have a partner in crime?  Naturally my fruity tropical addiction has made its way into my beauty routine as well.  Here are a few things I'm dying to pack in my suitcase!

Another integral part of a tropical routine involves taking lots of bubble baths with this deliciously scented Papaya Passion Punch 3-in-1 shampoo/shower gel/bubble bath from Philosophy.  Do up your eyes with this set of three eyeshadows from Bare Minerals in gorgeous Fruit Smoothie inspired shades, then at the end of the night Yes To Cucumbers makes it super easy to take off all your makeup with these refreshing and soothing cleansing cloths.  Nothing could be more perfect for a manicure than this polish from Essie, appropriately titled Peach Daiquiri.  This hydrating and balancing facial toner from Alba Botanica contains hibiscus, guava, honeysuckle, and cucumber for an amazing effect that's purely island in a bottle!  Benefit's brand new Cha Cha Tint is perfect for tropical lips and cheeks, while a Summer Fruit eos lip balm keeps lips smooth.  This Ginger cocktail inspired body splash from Marc Jacobs smells like paradise in a highball glass!  Your skin will thank you when you use this Super skincare line from Dr. Nicholas Perricone; each product is packed with superfood extracts like açaí and coconut water for super healthy skin.


If you're still lacking the tropical philosophy, have a look at this clip of Carmen Miranda at her finest!  You'll be dancing your way to the tropics for sure. 

My Favorite Redheads

 

Ann-Margret

 Rita Hayworth

Paloma Faith

Ella Morton

Miranda Hobbes/Cynthia Nixon

Joan Holloway/Christina Hendricks

AND NOW ME!  Surprise!

Inspiration: Gwen Stefani

Gwen Stefani is pretty much my hero.  I mean, really, do you know another celebrity who can rock pink hair and red lipstick at once?

Gwen is also phenomenally talented...touring with No Doubt during pregnancy, two solo albums, designing her own fashion & perfume labels, raising two sons, and keeping her marriage strong.  She writes incredibly personal lyrics and is the the sort of down-to-earth megastar you feel like could still be your BFF (yeah, I've been listening to Return of Saturn a lot lately).  Plus she rocks red lipstick and black liquid eyeliner like nobody's business and has worn bindi, jelly rolls, and even braces on the red carpet.  Seriously, how cool is she?!   Okay, enough gushing.

 Now, Gwen is adding "L'Oreal spokesmodel" to her list of fabulous accomplishments.  She's the face of the brand's new Infallible Le Rouge lipstick line (not to be confused with their original long wearing lip colour).

In her song "Orange County Girl", Gwen makes allusions to "selling makeup at the mall" -- in reality, she worked at a MAC counter!  She admits to having an appreciation for MAC's popular favorite Russian Red matte lipstick.  What else does Gwen love?

Dior Skinflash Radiance Booster pen: Gwen uses this both under and over her makeup to cover undereye circles and other imperfections.

Pantene Pro-V Sheer Volume hairspray: Gwen's hairdresser uses this to create all those incredible hairstyles.  Need I say more?

SPF 50: Though I don't know the exact brand she wears, Gwen never leaves the house without SPF 50 on her face and body.  Even though she grew up in southern California, she still has porcelain, undamaged skin.

MAC Cream Color Base in Fawntastic:  It's a bronzer!  No, wait, a highlighter!  It's even an eyeshadow base!  Gwen loves this super versatile product so much, it's even been spotted behind the scenes at her L.A.M.B. fashion shows and on models.

Inspiration: Marie Antoinette

She passed through the palace of Versailles with scented gloves, gowns as wide as twelve feet, and a tower of blonde curls atop her head, leaving a cloud of perfume in her wake.  Over two hundred years later, the name of French queen Marie Antoinette is still synonymous with luxury, indulgence, and a certain je ne sais quoi that continues to captivate the populace.  How did La Reine keep a step ahead of beauty trends in her day, and what products might she use in 2011?  Applied Glamour explores...

 Delightful Fragrances
In spite of the grandeur, 18th century Versailles was not a pleasant-smelling place.  Put lightly, there were hardly any restrooms for the hundreds of peasants and aristocrats who visited the palace daily.  Standard operating procedure was to sneak behind a curtain and hope for the best, regardless of your class or station.  Can you imagine?!

It's no surprise, then, that Marie Antoinette surrounded herself with fresh flowers and fragrant herbs and oils.  More than a luxury item, fragrances were a necessity for daily living in Versailles.  Marie was partial to orange blossom, rose, violet, lemon, and lavender scents.  She also loved to take baths, which was unusual in her time.  She even had a special bath mat filled with almonds, pine nuts, linseed, marshmallow root, and lilies. Finally, she always slept in gloves lined with wax, almond oil, and rose water to keep her hands silky and soft.  How glamorous!

A little Versailles glamour can be yours with these gorgeous perfume bottles.  Betsey Johnson's signature eau de parfum is housed in one of the most beautiful bottles I've ever seen and has notes of citrus fruit, black currant, pear, freesia, apple, lily of the valley, sandalwood, amber, and praline.  French couturier Jean Paul Gaultier's Classique eau de parfum is described as "sensual and sophisticated" with notes of vanilla orchid, rum essence, bourbon vanilla, rose essence, amber, tonka bean, sandalwood, and daffodil.

For a lovely soak, fill your bathtub with Philosophy's Vanilla Birthday Cake three in one shampoo, shower gel, and bubble bath.  (Side note: Marie never actually said "Let them eat cake," but she was fond of the confection!)  To moisturize your skin just like the Queen would, try L'Occitane's Peony Beauty Milk infused with shea butter, grape seed oil, and an exclusive peony extract imported from France.  For extra indulgence, sleep in these gloves lined with moisturizing gel from True Blue Spa.

The Regal Look
Before applying any cosmetics, Marie Antoinette would first cleanse her skin with Eau Cosmetique de Pigeon (if you reeeally want to know how it's made, ask!) , then apply Eau des Charmes as an astringent derived from grapevines (a precursor to grape seed oil?).  Finally she would use Eau d'Ange to gently whiten her complexion.  Today, I'll wager Marie would choose skincare products from luxury French brand Clarins.  The products are botanical based and the company is motivated by a love of nature and the environment, something the Queen would undoubtedly appreciate.  I also imagine she'd be into foundation from Givenchy, and maybe even tinted moisturizer.       

After whitening her skin, Marie would use scented powder on her face, lightly line her eyes with kohl, and dust rouge on her cheeks.  Scented pomade sticks were used as lip color, to tame eyebrows, and darken her eyelashes.  The beauty industry has come a long way since 1783, but Guerlain still used Marie as inspiration for their incredible Meteorites powder.  It's lightly lavender scented and the container is modeled after one of her own jewel boxes!  Of course today she would use DiorShow mascara for her eyelashes, and a gorgeous pink powder blush from Chanel.  Marie would probably add extra radiance to her complexion with YSL's Touche Eclat, and finish with Guerlain Kiss Kiss pink lipstick.  All French luxury brands, naturellement!

 

That Famous Hair

Marie Antoinette's legendary hair could easily be the subject of an entire blog post (this one is long enough!).  More than a fashion statement, her hair was used to impart current events and even political messages.  There's a reason she wore a miniature ship on her head and tiny American flags in her pouf!  The responsible party for these creations was Leonard, her very own hairstylist who was always at hand.  Leonard supposedly even used a mechanical pouf so the height of Marie's hair could be raised and lowered as needed to pass through carriages and doorways!  

Today the Glory of Big Hair is achieved with a good teasing comb and L'Oreal's Elnett hairspray.  It's a staple at every fashion show and red carpet event, but has only recently been available stateside; people used to smuggle in this cult favorite!  I think Marie would also like the gold package, don't you?          

      

Inspiration: What Would Marilyn Do?

The legendary Marilyn Monroe will always be my ultimate beauty inspiration, as I'm sure she is for countless others.  Marilyn had some pretty fantastic makeup tricks up her sequined and fur-covered sleeves.  She carefully guarded most of them in the competitive atmosphere of Hollywood, but luckily for us, many of her favorite products and beauty routines are known today.  Applied Glamour is excited to present the beauty secrets of one of the most beautiful women, well, ever.

Nivea moisturizer

Marilyn kept her complexion hydrated, radiant, and protected with Nivea creme.  She stated this was her most essential beauty product in numerous interviews, and it's still available today at any drugstore.  Nivea creme is one of the best bargains you'll ever find and it works wonders on all skin types.  

Oil-based cleanser

This product isn't for everyone, but an oil based cleanser is another way to keep dry skin hydrated and moisturized.  Marilyn used Shu Uemera's, but I imagine she would have been equally enthusiastic over Lancome's Huile Doucer Deep Cleansing Oil.  It's a little more widely available.  Marilyn once said she washed her face with cleansing oil, then splashed cold water on her face fifteen times to seal her pores.

Erno Laszlo Duo-pHase face powder

Marilyn acrually didn't wear a lot of base or foundation, but she was a fan of Erno Laszlo's powder (and his other products, too).  She would alternate between layers of Erno Laszlo powder and thin layers of Erno Laszlo's Active pHetityl cream to give her complexion that famous dewy glow.

Shaped eyebrows

It's kind of unreal how the shape of your eyebrows can change the appearance of your features, and Marilyn was well aware of this.  She had her eyebrows shaped in a sharp arch, which made her forehead appear wider and balanced out her cheeks and jawline.  Go to a salon and have your eyebrows shaped professionally, at least for the first time so you're almost guaranteed a flattering look that suits you.  Maintain them on your own with a kit like this one from brow gurus Anastasia, which comes with stencils, a brush, powder, tweezers, and brow gel. 

Alluring eyes

Marilyn referred to her own eye makeup as "the Greta Garbo eye."  She used Elizabeth Arden eyeshadows and would apply a shimmery white shade from her lashline to her brow bone.  She would then use a brush to fill in her crease with a dark color, usually brown or blue but occasionally green.  

To line her eyes, Marilyn used black or brown Elizabeth Arden pencils, or Guerlain liquid eyeliner.  She lined her upper lashline from the inner corner to the outer corner taking the line slightly upward, and lined her lower lashline from her iris to the outer corner and took the line just a teeny bit downward to make her eyes look extra wide.  She would take a white eyeliner pencil to fill in the "gap" between the two lines so her eye sparkled even more. 

Finish with Shu Uemera false eyelashes (cut them in half for a more natural look) or an eyelash curler and mascara for your own Marilyn/Greta eye!

Kissable lips

Would you believe that Marilyn used up to five different shades of red lipstick at once to achieve her famous look?  She took a genuinely artistic approach to applying all her makeup, but it's perhaps most evident in her lipstick application.  First she lined her mouth with a slightly deep red lip liner.  Then she'd take a lip brush and apply at least three layers of lipstick, usually by Guerlain, Max Factor, and Elizabeth Arden.  She would wear darker shades toward the edge of her lips and lighter shades toward the center, topped off with a highlighter for extra glossy shine and fullness.  Also mixed in between the lipstick layers was her own secret wax concoction to help shade and seal in the colors.  She never revealed what it was!  It's a mystery to this day.

A nice set of brushes

In order to take such an artistic approach to makeup application, one must have the proper brushes and tools!  Another one of Marilyn's frequently quoted beauty tips was to always apply lipstick with a lip brush, but of course she used brushes for eveything else as well.  A good set of brushes can be an investment, but they'll last much longer if you clean and disinfect them regularly.                    

A signature scent
For Marilyn, this was Chanel No. 5, a fragrance as iconic and classic and she is.  She famously quipped "What do I wear to bed?  Why, Chanel No. 5, of course!"  Finding a signature fragrance can be difficult, but the best way is to actually wear the perfume before making a purchase, rather than spraying it on a card.  This takes trial and error, but the process is worth it, don't you think?